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Bohemians of the past. Artistic conflicts in fin de siècle-Europe
Fashion is riddled by contradictions, defined by the constant tension between surface and content, reaching into the future by continuously reinventing its past. This paradox was especially present during the turn of the last century, when rural and pre-industrial life swiftly (but in no way easily) gave way to a more modern existence, defined through urbanity, fashion and new media. By Philip Warkander.
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Trying and Failing. On Ann-Sofie Back by Philip Warkander
Since the launch of her eponymous brand in 2001, followed by the more commercially motivated Back in 2005, Ann-Sofie Back has incorporated materials that aren’t what they first appear, and worked with details deliberately set out to confuse. This tactic of confusion and playful disorientation challenges two of the most fundamental concepts within fashion theory: “distinction” and “imitation.” By Philip Warkander