Thomas Monet, who launched COOL T.M two years ago, is a designer who undeniably loves fashion and clothes, but he’s also critical of certain parts of the industry that make it tough for new names to develop. His own career path is an impressive one and he has honed his skills at Balmain and Faith Connexion, working with style maverick Christophe Decarnin. We sat down with the Paris-based designer to discuss what makes a young brand relevant, how to navigate the current fashion landscape, and why he has no control when it comes to vintage shopping. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi
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Today, fashion is primarily consumed digitally. Not only is the online consumption of goods constantly increasing, but also the dissemination of fashion shows, reportages and documentaries are daily doors into the industry for both professionals and fashionistas. Online platforms like Vogue.com are therefore unique gateways and places where we live fashion. However, what appears to us as immediate and free content, is actually the result of hidden labour, economic transactions and technological innovation. We interviewed Fabio Donghi, founder of INDIGITAL.TV, one of the major online platforms and digital content production providers for fashion. He leads us inside his unique path and story, explaining what is behind our daily free consumption of fashion online. By Marco Pecorari.
Fashion archives are living in a new era. Not only are luxury fashion brands investing in rebuilding their own past, but a new definition and consumption of vintage clothing is emerging. The revival of the past has become more than an expression of nostalgia. Rather, it is an answer to today’s mass production and consumption. We asked Gill Linton, co-founder of Byronesque – the online editorial-based shop for contemporary vintage fashion – to lead us through the intricate world of ‘future vintage’. Together we reflect on the practice of commercialising the past and its potential for reaffirming values that the fashion industry has forgotten, but that may come back. Interview by Marco Pecorari and photography by Maxime Ballesteros.
Pedro Lourenço is no stranger to the fashion industry. He showcased his first collection at the age of twelve, working for his mother’s brand in São Paulo. At nineteen he launched his own critically acclaimed brand in Paris. Today, Pedro Lourenço has developed a sustainable approach to fashion design with his brand ZILVER. The brand philosophy at ZILVER is the idea of future-proof habits. How can you use resources in a clever way? How do you make things last? What kind of new solutions can you find to construct and manufacture materials? Interview by Lucas Dias and photography by Balint Barna.
Although African designer Lamine Kouyaté is currently being discovered by a new generation of fashion-conscious boys and girls, the talented founder of XULY.Bët has, in fact, been showing his work since the early 1990s, a decade that retains special appeal for fashion connoisseurs. Kouyaté returned to the Paris calendar last year – right before the pandemic started disrupting our world – and I was lucky enough to attend his comeback show, featuring the likes of Michelle Elie, Rossy de Palma and many other friends and models that he has cherished for years. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi.
Tom Van Der Borght works in relative isolation, spending weeks putting together the most impressive and exquisitely handmade items, which feel closer to the realm of performance art and haute couture than mere commercial fashion. Escaping categories is something Van Der Borght does better than most, and his efforts finally paid off during the 35th edition of the Hyères Festival last year when he won the much-coveted Grand Jury and Public Prizes. His beautiful and poignant show there managed to move a masked and distanced audience, delivering a message of hope and pure poetry in a pandemic-ridden world. Turns out the designer’s positive outlook is as engaging as his clothes are, and we got the chance to catch up with the talented Belgian to discuss his vision of fashion, working with Spanish artist Blanca Li, and why he loved being the opening act of Berlin Fashion Week. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi.
Berlin-based Ottolinger is already a standout name in a new generation of brands, working on alternative narratives in fashion and redefining the future of luxury. Founded by Swiss duo Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, sustainability and a focus on a slower-paced lifestyle are part of the brand’s DNA. Interview by Lucas Dias, photography by Niklas Bergstrand and styling by Hilda Sandström.