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XULY.Bët. Interview with Lamine Kouyaté
Although African designer Lamine Kouyaté is currently being discovered by a new generation of fashion-conscious boys and girls, the talented founder of XULY.Bët has, in fact, been showing his work since the early 1990s, a decade that retains special appeal for fashion connoisseurs. Kouyaté returned to the Paris calendar last year – right before the pandemic started disrupting our world – and I was lucky enough to attend his comeback show, featuring the likes of Michelle Elie, Rossy de Palma and many other friends and models that he has cherished for years. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi.
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Illuminations. Interview with Tom Van Der Borght
Tom Van Der Borght works in relative isolation, spending weeks putting together the most impressive and exquisitely handmade items, which feel closer to the realm of performance art and haute couture than mere commercial fashion. Escaping categories is something Van Der Borght does better than most, and his efforts finally paid off during the 35th edition of the Hyères Festival last year when he won the much-coveted Grand Jury and Public Prizes. His beautiful and poignant show there managed to move a masked and distanced audience, delivering a message of hope and pure poetry in a pandemic-ridden world. Turns out the designer’s positive outlook is as engaging as his clothes are, and we got the chance to catch up with the talented Belgian to discuss his vision of fashion, working with Spanish artist Blanca Li, and why he loved being the opening act of Berlin Fashion Week. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi.
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Matters in Dispersion: An Interview with the Founders of Diktats
The history of fashion is more than a history of garments. Printed matter plays a crucial role in the ways fashion has been disseminated and therefore constructed. However, the myriad forms of documentation are often overlooked and dispersed due to their ephemeral nature and circulation. We discussed these matters of dispersion with Diktats, an online bookstore specialising in rare antiquarian fashion books and prints. Diktats, created by Antoine Bucher and Nicolas Montagne, represents a reference in the field of collecting fashion ephemera through its collaborations with major international museums like the Costume Institute, Centre Pompidou and MAD Paris. Interview by Marco Pecorari.
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Fashion Story: Rudi
Photography by David Spaeth and fashion by Florian Winges.
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Local Hero. Interview with Boramy Viguier
Boramy Viguier is the founder and creative director of his eponymous brand, which he launched in 2017. Having previously worked alongside Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin helped him hone his craft and focus on all the little details that can make menswear inspiring, creative and practical at the same time. Viguier’s clothes are rooted in reality, but his fashion shows give you food for thought, with their esoteric and often mysterious messages. By Philippe Pourhashemi. Photography by Rafael Dubus
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Fashion Story: Impressions of Stories
Photography by Beatriz Conca and fashion by Mar Vera.
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Contradictory Layers. Interview with Dries van Noten
From our 10 year anniversary issue. “I think my work is a strange mixture of reality and dreams. I love to make pieces that are genuine and can be worn in many different ways,” says Dries Van Noten in an exclusive interview by Philippe Pourhashemi. Standing for elegance, charm and singularity, the collections of the celebrated Antwerp-based designer are soulful, moving and personal. Photography by Laetitia Hotte and fashion by Shino Itoi.
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Cover Story. Interview with Actress Rebecca Ferguson
Introducing the first cover story from our 10th anniversary issue. “Every job I do is yet a new episode that I put into my backpack of life,” says accomplished actress Rebecca Ferguson. Photography by Magnus Magnusson, fashion by Claudia Englmann and interview by Antonia Nessen.
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Experiencing Fashion Photography. Essay by Andrea Kollnitz
Fashion photographs, both everywhere and far detached. I first encountered them as a child in the shape of my mother’s German women’s magazines. Shyly devouring every image, wondering about what grown-up life in grown-up bodies might be like. Later glossy luxurious fashion magazines, hardly ever purchased, mainly found, seen, touched, glanced at in public spaces, at hair dressers, places where wo/men are indulging into becoming more perfected, idealized versions of themselves. Inspired by model images. Essay by Andrea Kollnitz
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Breaking with the Past. Essay by Bradley Quinn
Imagination, nostalgia and emotion, traditionally the preserve of the fine arts, have an enduring presence in architecture and fashion. Essay by Bradley Quinn