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Interview. Byronesque and the Value of Fashion History
Fashion archives are living in a new era. Not only are luxury fashion brands investing in rebuilding their own past, but a new definition and consumption of vintage clothing is emerging. The revival of the past has become more than an expression of nostalgia. Rather, it is an answer to today’s mass production and consumption. We asked Gill Linton, co-founder of Byronesque – the online editorial-based shop for contemporary vintage fashion – to lead us through the intricate world of ‘future vintage’. Together we reflect on the practice of commercialising the past and its potential for reaffirming values that the fashion industry has forgotten, but that may come back. Interview by Marco Pecorari and photography by Maxime Ballesteros.
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My Years with Azzedine. Interview with Annflor Sangan
What does it take for a designer to become a legend? A distinctive personal style, incredible talent and a strong visionary streak may help, but there’s something about certain names that escapes logic or rationality. In his lifetime and stellar career, Paris-based Tunisian couturier Azzedine Alaïa became the equivalent of a fashion god. Annflor Sangan, who works as a fashion consultant in Paris and launched her creative studio six years ago, was Alaïa’s first assistant for several years. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi.
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ZILVER. Interview with Pedro Lourenço
Pedro Lourenço is no stranger to the fashion industry. He showcased his first collection at the age of twelve, working for his mother’s brand in São Paulo. At nineteen he launched his own critically acclaimed brand in Paris. Today, Pedro Lourenço has developed a sustainable approach to fashion design with his brand ZILVER. The brand philosophy at ZILVER is the idea of future-proof habits. How can you use resources in a clever way? How do you make things last? What kind of new solutions can you find to construct and manufacture materials? Interview by Lucas Dias and photography by Balint Barna.
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XULY.Bët. Interview with Lamine Kouyaté
Although African designer Lamine Kouyaté is currently being discovered by a new generation of fashion-conscious boys and girls, the talented founder of XULY.Bët has, in fact, been showing his work since the early 1990s, a decade that retains special appeal for fashion connoisseurs. Kouyaté returned to the Paris calendar last year – right before the pandemic started disrupting our world – and I was lucky enough to attend his comeback show, featuring the likes of Michelle Elie, Rossy de Palma and many other friends and models that he has cherished for years. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi.
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Illuminations. Interview with Tom Van Der Borght
Tom Van Der Borght works in relative isolation, spending weeks putting together the most impressive and exquisitely handmade items, which feel closer to the realm of performance art and haute couture than mere commercial fashion. Escaping categories is something Van Der Borght does better than most, and his efforts finally paid off during the 35th edition of the Hyères Festival last year when he won the much-coveted Grand Jury and Public Prizes. His beautiful and poignant show there managed to move a masked and distanced audience, delivering a message of hope and pure poetry in a pandemic-ridden world. Turns out the designer’s positive outlook is as engaging as his clothes are, and we got the chance to catch up with the talented Belgian to discuss his vision of fashion, working with Spanish artist Blanca Li, and why he loved being the opening act of Berlin Fashion Week. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi.
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Matters in Dispersion: An Interview with the Founders of Diktats
The history of fashion is more than a history of garments. Printed matter plays a crucial role in the ways fashion has been disseminated and therefore constructed. However, the myriad forms of documentation are often overlooked and dispersed due to their ephemeral nature and circulation. We discussed these matters of dispersion with Diktats, an online bookstore specialising in rare antiquarian fashion books and prints. Diktats, created by Antoine Bucher and Nicolas Montagne, represents a reference in the field of collecting fashion ephemera through its collaborations with major international museums like the Costume Institute, Centre Pompidou and MAD Paris. Interview by Marco Pecorari.
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Interview. Ottolinger by Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient
Berlin-based Ottolinger is already a standout name in a new generation of brands, working on alternative narratives in fashion and redefining the future of luxury. Founded by Swiss duo Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, sustainability and a focus on a slower-paced lifestyle are part of the brand’s DNA. Interview by Lucas Dias, photography by Niklas Bergstrand and styling by Hilda Sandström.
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Local Hero. Interview with Boramy Viguier
Boramy Viguier is the founder and creative director of his eponymous brand, which he launched in 2017. Having previously worked alongside Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin helped him hone his craft and focus on all the little details that can make menswear inspiring, creative and practical at the same time. Viguier’s clothes are rooted in reality, but his fashion shows give you food for thought, with their esoteric and often mysterious messages. By Philippe Pourhashemi. Photography by Rafael Dubus
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Contradictory Layers. Interview with Dries van Noten
From our 10 year anniversary issue. “I think my work is a strange mixture of reality and dreams. I love to make pieces that are genuine and can be worn in many different ways,” says Dries Van Noten in an exclusive interview by Philippe Pourhashemi. Standing for elegance, charm and singularity, the collections of the celebrated Antwerp-based designer are soulful, moving and personal. Photography by Laetitia Hotte and fashion by Shino Itoi.
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Pattern of Thoughts. Interview with Linnéa Sjöberg
From our 10 year anniversary issue. “The latest weaves are called Pattern of Thoughts. They don’t have any predetermined patterns, rather they are a kind of visualization of how my brain works when I weave. I try to have lots of fun in my studio and be curious about where my thoughts will lead me,” says Linnéa Sjöberg, who has been working in Berlin since 2016 and is busy preparing for a solo exhibition at Company Gallery in New York. Interview by Antonia Nessen.
