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Fashion Visionary. Interview with Nathalie Dufour
If there is one thing that is clear in fashion, it’s that designers can never make it alone. After all, fashion is a field involving many different professions that bring their respective knowledge, network and expertise together in order to realize a designer’s vision. This is something Nathalie Dufour knew when she set up the prestigious ANDAM award in 1989. Paris was famous for launching international names, but the French were lacking the necessary entrepreneurial spirit and managerial skills. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi
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The Joys of Storytelling. Interview with Robin Meason
With a career in PR built on the success of young and independent brands, Robin Meason understands the complex nature of today’s industry. The Texas native, who moved to Paris in the early 1990s, largely contributed to the global rise and fame of Glenn Martens and Demna Gvasalia, two designers who have – in their own respective ways – defined the Zeitgeist. Meason is a great communicator and a woman who loves storytelling, but she’s more instinctive than calculating. She also values craft and authenticity, two key notions that may influence her choice when it comes to collaborating with new brands. By Philippe Pourhashemi
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Interview with Ben Gorham, founder of Byredo
Every once in a while, an interdisciplinary talent shakes the industry with visionary flair and a unique insight into the future of luxury and how it’s consumed. Enter Ben Gorham, who despite being Swedish and Stockholm-based, fully qualifies as “citizen of the world”. Ever since launching Byredo in 2006 – an innovative and now iconic perfume line – Gorham has managed to make us rethink what a luxury product is, challenging the corporations and their monopolies as well as preconceived ideas around the use of perfume. He also loves collaborating and involving other creative types in his projects, such as his friend Virgil Abloh who recently created a fragrance and line of accessories with the brand. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi. Photography by Magnus Magnusson
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Openness and Tolerance. Interview with Christelle Kocher
Seen from the outside, fashion isn’t exactly a warm and welcoming place. Riddled with preconceptions, snobbery and nepotism, it’s a field of intense power and competition, where egos rule and democratic thinking fades. Strangely enough, that is not the story of French designer Christelle Kocher, whose Paris-based brand KOCHÉ has challenged the status quo since its launch in 2014. Interview with Head Designer of Koché, Christelle Kocher by Philippe Pourhashemi. Photography by Magnus Magnusson
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Magical Laboratory. Interview with Designer Marianna Rosati
If Italy is globally famous for its intricate manufacturing of luxury goods, leather holds an important place within the country’s heart, renowned for its eye-catching bags and striking footwear. Several major fashion players have built their fortune on accessories as opposed to clothing. This is rather different with DROMe, the label headed by Italian designer Marianna Rosati who lives and works in Tuscany. Interview with Marianna Rosati by Philippe Pourhashemi. Photography by Magnus Magnusson
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Big Time Sensuality. Interview with Designer Johanna Senyk
Johanna Senyk is the Paris-based mastermind behind womenswear brand Wanda Nylon. Her concept was simple at first: she wanted directional and stylish waterproof clothes that could complement a trendy wardrobe. Capitalizing on her own singularity and tapping into the fashion world’s ongoing obsession with fetishism and anything kinky, Wanda Nylon has quickly become a desirable brand, attracting press and buyers. Now, Senyk shows her collections in Paris seasonally and has stockists worldwide. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi
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Sensory Pleasures. Interview with Zana Bayne
Pushing the boundaries of fashion is something Zana Bayne clearly excels at. Founded by herself and Co-Creative Director Todd Pendu, Zana’s eponymous brand quickly gained attention with its fetish-inspired accessories, highlighting the key relationship between sex, leather and skin. Since its launch in 2010, the brand has attracted famous musicians, actors, artists and private clients alike, who quickly became fans of Zana’s handcrafted harnesses, belts, chokers and bags. I caught up with her and Todd to discuss the evolution of their brand, why fashion still loves fetish and how being copied is ultimately unavoidable. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi
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Guts and Intellect. Interview with Designer Glenn Martens
This year’s ANDAM Prize winner has several reasons to be happy. In a few years, Glenn Martens has turned Y/Project into one of the buzziest and most sought-after brands in Paris, doubling stockists each season and gaining recognition from the press. Martens can simultaneously dress Rihanna, his best friends and beloved grandmother in Y/Project, because his clothes have a deeply human quality. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi.
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Curator’s Choice. Interview with Kaat Debo
Despite being public places entered by countless visitors each year, fashion museums still depend on the singular and creative vision of their appointed curator, who will bring refreshing innovation, as well as smart distinction, to the exhibition process. Having acted as the director of Antwerp’s prestigious ModeMuseum, also known as MoMu, for more than a decade now, Kaat Debo epitomizes the figure of the young and enlightened curator, putting together original and informative shows, which satisfy industry insiders as well as a larger audience. Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi
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Interview with Humberto Leon and Carol Lim at Kenzo
Contagious energy is what Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are all about. Since their arrival at Kenzo in July 2011, they have turned the somewhat dormant brand into an achingly cool line, delivering great clothes and accessories for boys and girls. When the two California natives chose downtown New York to launch Opening Ceremony in 2002, they managed to capture the essence of fashion within a retail environment, mixing street style cred with fresh proposals. By Philippe Pourhashemi